The Magic of the Maritimes

Overview

‘Canadians’, according to one of the country’s top writers, Pierre Berton, ‘are people who know how to make love in a canoe.’ The most distracting backdrop for this tricky manoeuvre would be the Maritime provinces on Canada’s east coast, an eco fest of wildlife plus rocky shores, national parks, fishing villages, lighthouses, maritime museums, harbour cruises, more lobsters than you’ve had hot dinners, whale watching trips and seascapes straight out of The Shipping News. Plus several canoe hire outlets. Nova Scotia alone offers 4,600 miles of amazingly undiscovered coast. And with nonstop, five hour or so flights from the UK, this clean, safe and abundantly natural world is a lot closer than you may think, comparable to a flight to the Canaries or Egypt.

Days 1 and 2: Halifax, Nova Scotia

The historic waterfront city presides over the world’s second largest natural harbour. Under the shadow of the 19th century Citadel, Canada’s most visited National Historic Site, you’ll find an excellent maritime museum and Pier 21, Canada’s version of Ellis Island where early immigrants were processed. Halifax also means evening ambles along the boardwalk with pubs and restaurants (the local McDonald’s even sells McLobster!). Your two nights will be at the Halliburton Inn.

Day 3: Lunenburg, Nova Scotia

Head west along the South Shore, through historic towns and time-weathered villages, including the artist colony at Mahone Bay, and the lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove, one of a score along the coast – hence the name ‘Lighthouse Route’. Lunenburg is home to the excellent Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic as well as lots of wooden houses, most of which fall under the protective preservation blanket of UNESCO. Spend the night in the Lunenburg Arms Hotel and Spa.

Day 4: Annapolis Royal, Nova Scotia

Continue along the coast to Liverpool before turning inland to the forests and lakes of the Kejimkujik National Park where you might want to spend some time canoeing - the rolling, forested hills studded with lakes being among the best places in North America for a paddle. The Bay of Fundy, famous for having the biggest tidal range in the world - 54 feet in ‘springs’ – is one of the best places to see whales, with Finbacks, Humpbacks, Minkes and Rights in summer, best seen from Digby Neck. You’ll spend the night in Queen Anne Inn in Annapolis Royal, the oldest town in Canada.

Day 5: St. Martins, New Brunswick

Hop on a ferry from Digby across the Bay of Fundy to New Brunswick, largest of the Maritimes, unspoilt and steeped in original French Acadian roots. The seaport of St John, where the ferry docks, is Canada’s oldest incorporated city. Drive to historic ship building village of St Martins for your night in the Quaco Inn.

Day 6: Little Shemogue, NB

Drive to the Fundy National Park where you’ll want to explore the hiking trails and inspect rugged coastal cliffs. From Alma the road hugs the shore, passing the towering, tide-sculpted Hopewell Rocks, then turns inland up the narrow estuary of the Petitcodiac River. Stay at the Little Shemogue country inn, pronounced ‘shimogwee’, near Port Elgin.

Days 7 and 8: Prince Edward Island

Continue across the bridge to the crescent shaped Prince Edward Island – PEI for short – in the gulf of the St Lawrence. Canada’s smallest province is famously the home of Lucy Maud Montgomery who penned Anne of Green Gables (the farmhouse that inspired the novels, along with her birthplace and two museums, is open to visitors). You’ll also want to spend time on the superb north shore beaches. Stay in Charlottetown at The Great George, a boutique hotel in the historic capital.

Day 9: Cabot Trail, Nova Scotia

Cross back to Nova Scotia on the ferry to Pictou, with time to detour to the deserted beaches of Northumberland Strait where the water temperatures are comparable to the English seaside. You can visit the Hector Heritage centre and step aboard an exact replica of the ship Hector, which brought the first Scottish settlers to Nova Scotia in 1773. Spend the night in one of the eighteen Island Sunset cottages, right on the sea, each with a fireplace and kitchenette.

Day 10: Ingonish Beach, Nova Scotia

Drive the circular route known as the Cabot Trail around Cape Breton “island” which marks the northernmost end of the Appalachians. It’s one of the world’s most scenic drives, the road carved into the side of the mountains that rise above the waters of the St Lawrence. The area is also a hub of Celtic ‘Acadian’ culture; to the south of the peninsula is an important historic site to inspect, the fort at Louisbourg, built by the French to guard the doorway to their New World. You’ll stay at the aptly called Keltic Lodge, on the tip of a spit of land.

Day 11: Liscomb Mills, Nova Scotia

Enjoy a morning cruise on Bras d'Or lakes and visit the Alexander Graham Bell national historic site, before driving to Sherbrooke village, site of a fascinating ‘living history’ museum celebrating the town’s mid-19th century golden age of shipbuilding, gold mining and lumbering. Overnight at Liscombe Lodge on the scenic Marine Drive where there’s a wide range of activities on the menu.

Day 12: Fly home

Continue to Halifax along the Marine Drive before catching your flight home.

Another approach to the Maritimes is to fly into Halifax, explore Nova Scotia (plus New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island), return to Halifax and take “The Ocean” train south, visiting Québec along the way, flying home from either Toronto or Montréal.

Let us know if you want us to tailor a similar itinerary to your particular interests.

Accommodation

2 nights in Halifax at The Halliburton including continental breakfast

1 night in Lunenburg at Lunenburg Arms Hotel and Spa

1 night in Annapolis Royal at Queen Anne Inn including breakfast

1 night in St. Martins at Tidal Watch Inn (was Quaco Inn)

1 night in Little Shemogue at Little Shemogue Country Inn

2 nights in Charlottetown at The Great George including continental breakfast

1 night at Belle Cote at Island Sunset Resort

1 night at Ingonish Beach at Keltic Lodge Resort and Spa

1 night in Liscomb Mills at Liscombe Lodge