In the arid lowlands beneath Mt. Kenya, some 325 kilometres north of Nairobi, the Samburu National Reserve provides a sensational safari. An abundance of wildlife congregates on the shady, wooded banks of the Ewaso Ngiro River in the dry season, the localised Reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra and gerenuk among them. The contrasting landscapes have a wild beauty, and the bright attire and beadwork of the semi-nomadic Samburu sparkle against this harsh environment.

In addition to the ‘northern five’ – species found north of the Equator and adapted to the arid habitat by their ability to survive long periods on only the moisture in their food – buffalo and waterbuck frequent the woodland and herds of impala and Grant’s gazelle graze beneath the trees while lion, cheetah and leopard wait their chance. Samburu is renowned for its large elephant population and for the Douglas-Hamiltons’ pioneering research and conservation work. The birdlife is superb, with over 350 species including White-headed mouse birds, kingfishers, sunbirds, bee-eaters and a variety of raptors.

Bordered by tamarinds, acacias and doum palms, the Ewaso Ngiro River is the lifeblood of the Samburu and creates a permanent ribbon of green winding from the Aberdare foothills through the reserve. Numerous crocodiles inhabit the river and hippos wallow in the deeper pools. Most of the Samburu safari camps stand on the banks of the river.